Saturday 10/15
I was treated to some excellent Chinese hospitality today. Aaron and Panzhu gave me an all-day walking tour.
On the way to meet them, a splash of resident color.

We took the subway, which I learned is the largest system in the world. Aaron is checking his tablet for the best route.

One of the streets outside the City God Temple, a historical re-creation shopping area with an active Taoist temple in the center.

It was like Disneyland at rush hour. Wall to wall people. Bigger image if you click.

Inside the temple, people were burning incense sticks and praying to a selection of gods… the god of wealth, a general-god who died in the Opium Wars, and more.

Old Chinese women were tying red prayer ribbons onto wooden bars below these sculptures.

A sculpture on the temple roof.

A traditional arch “paifang” at the entrance to the temple.

Just outside the temple district, monumental apartment complexes.

Next we took a taxi across town to get some lunch in the Taikang Lu arts district. A cute warren of shops, galleries, and cafes populated with Western tourists and young Chinese on dates.

We picked a Japanese barbecue restaurant called Tai Guo. Thinly-sliced meats, long thin mushrooms, and shrimp for the tabletop grill. Fresh fruit on the side.

Next we took the subway out to the Bund for a walk along the historic waterfront. Crowded! But the view of the Pudong skyscrapers was simply unreal, like a gleaming model railroad set.

A bride, in front of a passing cargo ship, in front of the tallest building in China.

Bottle-opener building. Not a camera lens artifact… reflected sunlight was casting godrays through the smog.

Aaron’s friend Yiyabo met us at the Qibao subway station. He was born and raised in this area, so he offered to feed us the best from each shop.

He took us to a hole-in-the-wall dumpling restaurant with a little seating gallery upstairs. You pre-pay then walk through the kitchen to get to the tiny near-vertical stairwell in the back.

He left us there, to fetch goodies from other vendors. This is the “stinky tofu” people told me about. Tasty, but also very earthy, evoking a bit of farm yard.

Yiyabo and Panzhu. There’s a white Chinese sign posted a couple times on the wall; I asked what it meant. It says “No outside food!” but Yiyabo waved it away with a smile.

It was a bustling marketplace with every kind of store. These mannequin heads made an interesting pattern.

There was a public square at the South end. A large group of women were gathering for their nightly after-dinner dance. It was mesmerizing to watch them perform a coordinated tai-chi-like dance to music on a Chinese boombox. No men do this dance, only the women.
